SK Pest Elimination

Termites

Termites have been around since the dinosaurs, when all they did was devour trees in the forest. But nowadays, they eat away at homes to the annual cost of $5 billion in treatments and damages just in the U.S.

And it’s only going to get worse.

What most homeowners don’t realize is that termites are a 24/7 pest, meaning that they toil 24 hours a day, seven days a week to gorge themselves, putting at risk the biggest investment most people make in their lifetime, their home.

It’s a growing threat, due to the onslaught in southern regions of the U.S. over the past few years of the ferocious, more aggressive Formosan termite, dubbed “Super Bug” and “Termite from Hell.” (Subterranean termites are the most common termite and also the number one wood-destroying pest in the U.S.).

Researchers predict almost 100% of untreated homes in some southeast regions of the country will eventually be infested with termites, according to a September 1999 workshop on termites sponsored by the National Park Service in Louisiana—a state especially hard hit by the Formosan termite.

Homeowners insurance will help recover losses from fires, storms, and earthquakes, but it is impossible to carry insurance against termite infestation. There’s only one solution with two options: control them, either by yourself or by hiring a trained and qualified pest management professional.

“Detecting and controlling termites is a job for the professional,” advises Mark Lacey, director of Technical and Field Services for the National Pest Management Association (NPMA), a trade association representing 80% of the professional pest management industry in the U.S., plus international affiliations.

Through focus groups designed to learn consumers’ perceptions of the pest management industry, the NPMA discovered that protecting customers’ homes—their primary investments—is a concept that is believable, relevant, and motivating.

Focus groups found that the dangers of a termite or carpenter ant infestations are well known and feared. Both pests could literally destroy a home if the problem is undetected or ignored. This potential destruction is reinforced every time consumers purchase a home and termite and pest inspections are required.

In this context, the cost of hiring a pest management professional makes sense, participants in the focus groups agreed. The expense pales with the repercussions of not hiring a professional.

One participant said: “Instead of having to spend a lot of money on a costly repair, I’d rather spend a little here. The big money goes to the kids’ educations and family vacations.”

In the NPMA’s new consumer web site designed to answer homeowner questions about pest control issues, a frequent topic is do-it-yourself. For example, one homeowner asked if a particular bait system is available for purchase.

The NPMA replied, “Yes, it is available. And no, there’s no reason you couldn’t do it yourself. But the big question is, will you do it yourself and will it work if you do it yourself. Because if you slack off, go on vacation, and forget to manage your bait stations, they won’t work and you’ll be back to square one, with termites still eating your house down around you.”

Other scientists and researchers agree with NPMA’s Lacey that a thorough inspection by a termite-control specialist is the first and most important step in protecting property. “Experienced” eyes can locate the specific areas in a structure where termite attack is likely to occur.

At Ohio State University Extension, a recent entomology report states that, “In most cases, once a termite infestation has been found, control measures are best accomplished by a professional pest management firm rather than a do-it-yourself treatment."

Similar advice comes from the University of Nebraska, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources. In a recent report on termites, it said: “In most cases, it is beyond the ability of an untrained person to attempt the termite treatment.”

The report added that, “Generally, termite treatments should be performed by pest management professionals. Termite treatments require special tools such as hammer drills, sub-slab injectors, rodding devices, engines equipped with pumps, protective equipment, etc.

Both universities, the NPMA and other experts all offer similar advice to homeowners. First, don’t panic if spotting evidence of termite damage. Termites work slowly, although consistently throughout the year. (But be forewarned that the Formosan termite can chew its way through beams and plywood nine times faster than other termites. In Hawaii and elsewhere, they’ve been known to cause major structural damage to new homes in as little as three months).

Don’t make any quick decisions. Get two or more cost estimates in writing and compare them. Seek value and avoid making decisions based only on price. Ask about liability insurance. Verify that the firm you select is a member of your state Pest Control Association and the NPMA.

Finally, ask friends and neighbors to recommend a firm they have been satisfied with. As a final precaution, check with the local Better Business Bureau for a company performance record.

Termites justifiably have a bad reputation in the human world, but in the overall scheme of life, that isn’t so. Since they feed on wood, termites serve an important function in nature by converting dead trees into organic matter, or humus, which is then available to nourish living trees.

Unfortunately, the wood in our homes is just as palatable to termites as the dead trees in the forest. Subterranean termite colonies live in the soil, not the building, unless the building is heavily infested.

House Mice

The house mouse (Mus musculus) is considered one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. House mice live and thrive under a variety of conditions in and around homes and farms. House mice consume food meant for humans or pets. They contaminate food-preparation surfaces with their feces, which can contain the bacterium that causes food poisoning (salmonellosis). Their constant gnawing causes damage to structures and property.

Recognizing Mouse Infestations : Droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks indicate areas where mice are active. Mouse nests, made from fine shredded paper or other fibrous material, are often found in sheltered locations. House mice have a characteristic musky odor that identifies their presence. Mice are occasionally seen during daylight hours.

House Mouse Facts: House mice are gray or brown rodents with relatively large ears and small eyes. An adult weighs about 1/2 ounce and is about 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches long, including the 3 to 4 inch tail.

Although house mice usually feed on cereal grains, they will eat many kinds of food. They eat often, nibbling bits of food here and there. Mice have keen senses of taste, hearing, smell and touch. They are excellent climbers and can run up any rough vertical surface. They will run horizontally along wire cables or ropes and can jump up 13 inches from the floor onto a flat surface. They can slip through a crack that a pencil will fit into (slightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter).

In a single year, a female may have five to 10 litters of usually five or six young each. Young are born 19 to 21 days after mating, and they are mature in six to 10 weeks. The life span of a mouse is about nine to 12 months.

Rats

Rats are rodents of the genus Rattus who have been living in close (but usually not happy) association with humans for thousands of years. In fact, the professional pest control industry was born when the connection between rats and the spread of bubonic plague was first established, and the first pest control professionals were known simply as "rat catchers."

Like all rodents, rats reproduce rapidly, and it doesn't take long for a rat infestation to develop once rats are established. Especially in densely populated areas like Atlanta, rat control is a vital public health service.

 

Health Risks Associated with Rats

Rats in the wild are known to be involved in the transmission of many serious diseases including plague, hantavirus pulmonary syndrome, murine typhus, rat-bite fever, salmonella, and leptospirosis.

Rats also are involved in the transmission cycle of lyme disease, encephalitis, and other arboviral diseases vectored by their fleas, ticks, mites, and other parasites.

 

Economic Effects of Rats

In addition to the health risks associated with rats, rats also cause considerable economic damage. Like all rodents, rats have sharp teeth and powerful jaws (they can chew through concrete), and can damage homes, barns, grain silos, and other buildings.

In urban areas like Atlanta, rats chewing through wires cause an untold number of fires every year. Rats also cause crop damage by their feeding activities, and contaminate millions of pounds of stored food and animal feed with their urine, droppings, and shed hairs. In fact, rats contaminate more food with their filth than they actually consume.

Obviously, the best way to avoid the health hazards and economic losses caused by rats is through effective, professional rat control.

 

The Importance of Exclusion in Rat Control

Rat extermination services provided by most pest control companies rely too much on chemical rat control (poisoning rats), with little or no emphasis on rat exclusion, or sealing rats out of a home or building.

Because rats can squeeze through gaps as narrow as an inch or less, rat exclusion is detailed, meticulous work. But a rat extermination job that doesn't include proper rat exclusion is only half a job. Before long, "new" rats will get in the same way the "old" rats did, and you'll still be paying for rat control long after your "original" rats are dead.

If your rat exterminator doesn't do proper rat exclusion, expect to be seeing him (and paying him) for many years to come. Also expect to still have rats the whole time, no matter how much you pay to keep poisoning them.

In the case of mice, exclusion becomes even more difficult because mice can slip through openings as narrow as a pencil. Only the most highly skilled exteminators should attempt mouse exclusion. Sealing out mice definitely is not a job for do-it-yourselfers.

 

Why Rat Trapping is Better than Chemical Rat Control

Conventional rat extermination uses chemicals (poisons) to kill rats. Poisoning rats has obvious risks. For example:

	Non-target animals, such as pets, livestock, and non-target wildlife, may eat the poison and become ill or die.
	Poisoned rodents often die in walls, ceilings, and other inaccessible areas, causing odors that can last for months. Don't believe the old line that they'll "go outside to seek water." It's nonsense.
	Dead rats also provide a breeding medium for flies, beetles, and other insects, and can create a secondary insect pest problem that is impossible to properly control until the carcass is removed or completely decomposes, which can take months.
	When an animal dies, the parasites who used to live on that animal (fleas, ticks, mites, and so forth) look for new hosts. That new host may be your pets, your livestock, or even you.

Cockroaches

Cockroaches are among the most hated insects.Their presence in the home is offensive and implies uncleanliness. Cockroaches contaminate food and leave an unpleasant odor. They also can transmit diseases.

Most cockroaches are tropical or sub-tropical in origin and generally live outdoors.However, some species do live indoors. It is true that they thrive in dirt, trash and grime, but cockroaches can infest even clean and well-organized homes and buildings.

In Texas, only five species of cockroaches ar really troublesome indoors; others live outdoors.Depending on species, cockroaches can be golden-brown, reddish-brown, lightbrown, glossy or very darkbrown, or black in color, and range from 1 /2-inch to1 3 /4-inches long.

Where do cockroaches live?

Cockroaches get into buildings in infested boxes, grocery bags, beverage cartons, furniture and dried pet foods. They also enter around loose-fitting doors and windows, where electrical lines or water and steam pipes pass through walls, through sewer lines or on seasoned firewood.

Most cockroaches come out only at night but may appear during the day when disturbed or where there is a heavy infestation. They prefer warm, dark, humid shelters like the kitchen sink or drain board; cracks around cabinets; window or door frames; loose baseboards or molding strips; upholstered furniture; bathrooms; and motor compartments of refrigerators, washing machines and other appliances. Know where cockroaches hide because these are the locations you must treat.

Cockroaches eat different plant and animal products, including meat and grease, starchy foods, sweets, baked goods and other unprotected kitchen goods. They also feed on materials such as leather, book binding and sizing, and wallpaper paste.

How to control cockroaches

Use preventive measures to control cockroaches successfully. It is easier to prevent a cockroach invasion than to control an established one.Preventive measures require care, planning and continued effort to be successful. A clean home reduces the chance of cockroach infestations and the need for pesticides, but will not always prevent invasions from outside sources.

Inspection

Inspect regularly and thoroughly to locate conditions which invite cockroach invasions. Examine all known or suspected cockroach hiding places and incoming materials.

Sanitation

Good sanitation, both indoors and outdoors, effectively limits cockroach populations. Do not leave unwashed dishes, kitchen utensils and uncovered food out overnight. Clean up all spilled liquids. Clean areas beneath cabinets, furniture, sinks, stoves and storage bins where tiny particles of food may accumulate. Keep kitchen garbage and excess trash in container sand remove them regularly. Store dry pet food away from the kitchen and other foods. If you feed pets indoors, remove the leftover foods immediately. Clean outdoor garbage cans frequently, along with platforms or slabs on which they are kept.

Exclusion

Seal any cracks of 1 /8 inch or more in the foundation and exterior walls. Check the caulking around air conditioning units, windows, doors, pipes or other openings into the home. Repair cracks and holes in floors, walls and ceilings. Seal openings around plumbing fixtures, furnace flues, electrical outlets, windowsills and walls, and along baseboards and ceiling moldings. Repair leaky water faucets and pipes.

Eliminate hiding places

Keep yard trash and stacks of firewood away from your home or garage to minimize the chance of cockroach invasion. Paper, cardboard, lumber and firewood in the home provide excellent refuge for cockroaches.

Cockroach traps

Trapping can reveal the hiding places and the seriousness of the infestation. Trapping alone will not eliminate cockroaches, but should be used with preventive measures for better results. Many inexpensive cockroach traps are available. They are easy to use, disposable and contain no toxic insecticide. Most are box shaped and coated with a very sticky adhesive inside. Some traps may also feature slow release food attractant. Cockroaches enter the trap when detecting the food odor and stick to the adhesive.Place traps where cockroaches are likely to travel. Change the trap's position if no cockroaches are caught after two or three nights.The number of traps required will depend on the kind of cockroach present and location of the infestation.

Chemical control

To control cockroaches with insecticides, find their daytime hiding place and thoroughly treat those areas. Regardless of the insecticide chosen, chemicals placed in or near regular hiding places provide much better control than those placed where cockroaches move only occasionally. Since some cockroach species invade homes and buildings from outside, they may reinfest dwellings once the insecticide dissipates. To solve this problem, outdoor populations must also be controlled. The type of chemical selected and the application method used depend on the location and nature of the infestation. No one chemical handles all cockroach problems, but a combination of various types is effective.

Professional control

If severe or difficult cockroach infestation occur, or if you are in doubt as to proper control measures, contract a professional pest control service. These professionals have the necessary equipment and training to do a safe and effective job.

Bats

A single bat that enters a home can often be removed easily. Closing off doorways to the room containing the bat and opening a window will usually prompt the bat to fly outside. A large jar or can may also be used to remove a bat. Move toward the bat slowly so that it is not startled and gently place the can over it. Slide stiff paper or cardboard under the can’s opening, using it as a lid when removing the bat. Heavy leather gloves should be used to remove a bat by hand. Bats, like all wild animals, may bite when handled and should not be removed bare-handed. Remember that bats, like other mammals, may be a source of rabies. The rabies virus is found in saliva and may be transmitted through the bite of an infected animal. If you are accidentally bitten while handling a bat, make sure the bat is saved for examination. Immediately wash the bite with soap and water and seek prompt medical advice. Non-bite exposures can also occur and should be treated in the same manner as a bite. A non-bite exposure occurs when saliva or brain tissue from an infected animal enters scratches, abrasions, open wounds or mucous membranes (nose, mouth, eyes).

Most colonies of bats are small and often remain unnoticed for many years. Large colonies residing in an attic or wall may become a nuisance because of noise and unsightly guano accumulations. Eviction and exclusion of roosting bats are the only safe, permanent solutions to a nuisance problem. Numerous repellents and techniques may be used in an effort to evict nuisance bats.

Mothballs (napthalene) placed in mesh bags may be hung in attics to discourage bats but are of limited value. The effectiveness of napthalene depends to a great extent on the amount of ventilation in a given roost; the better the ventilation, the lower the effectiveness. Napthalene also poses health risks to humans when used in quantity. Aerosol dog and cat repellents are useful in limited situations such as discouraging the use of a particular night roosting spot. They should never be applied while the bats are present. Direct contact is harmful to the bats and may cause them to fly at the "attacker" in their haste to get away.

Racoons

Because of their ability to coexist with humans, raccoons can become a nuisance when they damage gardens, raid garbage cans or inhabit human structures. They can be especially destructive on farms, where they feed heavily on crops. Because of their susceptibility to rabies, problem raccoons cannot be relocated and wildlife rehabilitators can only accept them for rehabilitation with certain restrictions. However, some raccoon problems can be controlled using preventive measures.

To deter raccoons from raiding garbage cans, several modifications can be made. Snaps can be attached to the lid and the handle can be secured to a stake driven into the ground. Placing cans in wooden bins or in the garage may also eliminate raccoon raiding problems. Some people have had success with placing ammonia directly in the can to repel raccoons.

Pet or livestock food should not be left outside where it is available to raccoons. Bird feeders should be placed away from trees or other structures that can be climbed by raccoons.

Raccoons can easily access roofs by climbing trees, downspouts, vines, or a trellis located near the house. Therefore, to prevent raccoons from entering houses, roofs and chimneys should be well-maintained. Replace loose shingles, repair any holes near the eaves of the roof and securely place a chimney cap over the chimney. Limiting the access to the roof by trimming trees and shrubs may also be helpful.

Skunks

Skunks are one of the most common sources of wildlife problems experienced by Connecticut homeowners. Skunks will dig up lawns and gardens searching for insect larvae and grubs. They leave cone-shaped, divet-like holes, three to four inches in diameter and may also turn over larger pieces of sod. Controlling lawn grubs may reduce skunk damage to lawns. Lawn treatment advice and materials are available from garden or hardware stores.

Turtle nests are also dug up by skunks searching for the eggs. Skunk predation on turtle eggs can account for a significant portion of egg mortality. Eggs of ground nesting birds will also be eaten if encountered by skunks.

Skunks will raid garbage cans for a variety of food scraps. Garbage cans should have tight-fitting lids and should be inaccessible to wild animals.

Skunks which have taken up residence under the porch or house can be excluded by covering all foundation openings with woven wire fencing. One opening should be left uncovered until no skunks remain under the building, such as when they have left to feed in the evening. This can be verified by seeing the skunks leave or flour can be sprinkled on the ground by this opening and checked periodically for footprints leading out of the opening. Once the skunk leaves, seal up the doorway with more fencing. You must be careful when using this technique since sealing burrows from early May to mid-August may leave young skunks trapped inside. Be sure all animals are out before sealing the final opening. Because skunks are adept at digging, any fencing may have to be buried at least one foot deep. Fencing will also help keep skunks out of gardens because they are not good climbers.

If a skunk happens to find its way into the basement or garage, leave a door open and let the animal come out on its own. To prevent future problems with skunks or other curious animals, keep basement and garage doors closed.

Skunks often become trapped in window wells. A flat, wide board placed at a low angle will usually allow the animal to climb out on its own.

Because skunks can carry rabies, they can no longer be live-trapped and relocated. Animals that appear sick or that are acting abnormally should be avoided. The following symptoms may indicate the presence of rabies or other neurological diseases in mammals: unprovoked aggression, impaired movement, paralysis or lack of coordination, unusually friendly behavior and disorientation. If you see this behavior, avoid the animal and notify your local animal control officer.

Squirrels

Most complaints about gray squirrels are from homeowners with squirrels in their houses. Squirrels will readily take up residence in a building if access to sheltered areas such as eaves and attic crawl spaces is available. Gnawing, scratching, and pattering sounds, in early morning or daylight hours, usually signal their presence. Balls of torn insulation, cardboard, and dried leaves and twigs may pinpoint nests, but nests and young may be totally concealed within eaves or wall spaces. Squirrels in house eaves and attics can damage insulation and electrical wiring and should be removed.

When blocking holes to prevent squirrels and other animals from gaining access, be sure that none are trapped inside. Adults can cause severe damage by chewing to regain entrance to reach their young. If chewing persists, heavy, half-inch wire mesh can be temporarily placed over the problem area. Trimming shrubs and vines and pruning overhanging tree limbs may discourage squirrels from causing problems in the home. In easily accessible areas, squirrels may be evicted by carefully applying an odor repellent like mothballs. Bright lights or noise from radios may also help.

Gray squirrels are highly excitable and can cause severe damage if trapped inside a building. When frightened, they tend to run around a room with reckless abandon, knocking over anything in their way. By quickly and quietly opening a door or window to the outside and leaving the room, you will give the squirrel its best chance to get out.

To free a squirrel trapped in a chimney, lower a heavy rope down the chimney to provide a means for the animal to climb out. Drop the other end of the rope to the ground to avoid another trip to the roof to retrieve it after the squirrel has left.

Another major complaint about squirrels is the disruption they may cause at bird feeders. Feeders should be placed in an area where squirrels cannot gain access to them, far away from shrubs and overhanging tree branches. Mounting the feeder on a metal pole at least six feet high and attaching a metal, cone-shaped baffle to the pole will help prevent squirrels from reaching it. Hanging feeders are not recommended, since squirrels will climb down the hanger wire or will shake the wire until the food falls to the ground.

Live-trapping gray squirrels, using metal box traps at least two feet long is often the most effective way to remove them. Place traps, baited with apple chunks, peanut butter, or various nuts, in heavily travelled routes or on rooftops, along porch railings, or within the attic. Once trapped, squirrels should be quickly removed from cages and released.

Woodchucks

The most permanent method of controlling woodchucks, and other wildlife, in a garden situation is by erecting a fence. A sturdy fence at least three feet high will keep most medium-sized animals out. However, woodchucks may try to burrow under the fence. It is recommended that the fence extend underground another one to two feet. Woodchucks have also been known to climb over fences, in which case a one-foot extension that is bent outward at a 90-degree angle should be added to the top of the fence. Placement of an electric hot shot wire four inches above the ground and at the top of the fence will further prevent woodchucks from climbing the fence.

Certain insecticides sprayed on garden vegetables (follow label instructions) may work as a repellent, but these have had only limited success.

Woodchucks can be hunted most of the year with no daily or seasonal limits; check the current hunting and trapping guide for periods when the season is closed.

Flea Treatment

Flea infestation is not uncommon. Fleas can be carried in on pet animals as well as on humans. This problem can be treated with as little as two applications of pesticide and client cooperation.

Fleas are blood feeders and are just as happy to feed on you as your pets and a host of other animals. An adult female flea will lay a few eggs each day until she has laid up to 200 to 400 eggs. Most eggs will hatch in 2 to 3 days under favorable conditions. From eggs they hatch into a larva state, in a few weeks they pupate and emerge as adults. This whole life cycle can take as little as 21 days or up to 2 years.

Important Considerations

All occupants of structure will have to leave on the day of application for at least 4 hours to assure a complete application and to give time to dry.

If pets are present they must be treated with an effective on animal flea control program the day of our pesticide application or the day prior to our application. Do not return pet to location until our application is complete and dry. All pet bedding should be machine washed and dried on high heat and placed in plastic bags prior to our application.

All clutter must be removed from floors, closets and under beds to assure a complete application.

Prior to treatment Client must vacuum all floors, cracks, crevasse and furniture and dispose of vacuum bag outside in a sealed plastic bag. 24 hours after treatment client must continue to vacuum for at least 10 days, each day disposing of the vacuum bag. (This will not only help dispose of all 4 life cycles of the flea, it will encourage the pupa state to emerge as an adult where it can be controlled by a residual pesticide.)

The pupa and egg state of the flea life cycle is very difficult to control. You will have some adult flea emergency for 2 to 3 weeks after the application. These fleas will be controlled by the residual effects of the pesticide.

1. If you have an infestation of fleas and you do have pets, you must coordinate an appointment with a Vet to have the pet dipped the same day that the flea control treatment is performed.

2. You must vacuum thoroughly all areas of your apartment visited by pets and those places where dirt accumulates (e.g. edges of fitted carpets, under cushions on sofas, under heavy furniture, pet resting areas). This will particularly remove flea eggs, adults and larval food. Immediately dispose of the vacuum bag outside.

3. You should be prepared to leave your apartment for up to (4) four hours when the treatment is performed. Once the pesticide is applied to the floors you cannot walk on them until it has dried.

4. Try to keep your pets indoors (or having no pets at all) is the most effective and economical method of avoiding fleas being brought into the home.

5. Where pets are a main source of fleas, regularly wash pet bedding to destroy immature stages of fleas.

6. Eliminate carpets or rugs which are difficult to clean (e.g. some shag rugs) or have them regularly cleaned by professionals.

7. AFTER TREATMENT: Vacuum carpets every day for 10 days and remove the vacuum bag outdoors and dispose of it properly. Don’t be alarmed if you see adult fleas when you are vacuuming. These fleas were in the pupa and egg stages which aren’t killed by the insecticide application. However, there is enough residual control to last for up to four weeks. That’s enough time to kill adults as they emerge and give good control in most situations.

Bed Bugs

Bed bugs, Cimex lectularius, have resurged to quickly become a very important pest of the 21st century, as they invade numerous urban areas including hostels, hotels and residences. Our society has had a 30+ year “vacation” from this pest, when bed bugs were almost removed from North America as a result of mass treatments with older types of insecticides (DDT, Chlordane, Lindane). Recently though, bed bugs have found ample opportunity to increase in number and spread through society. Their success is a result of: increased travel of people; improved treatment methods that specifically target other insect pests; and the lack of public awareness.

Bed bugs typically cluster together in favorable harborage areas. However, some bed bugs will live by themselves, away from the majority of the infestation. The best way to determine if you have an infestation is to look for bed bugs where you sleep (or rest) and where you typically set down luggage (or bags) when you enter the residence. Your luggage and places where your luggage may be stored are also some of the first areas to look. In bedrooms, look particularly around boxsprings, mattresses, bed frames, tufts, folds, and buttons on mattresses, furniture, such as desks and chairs, behind wall paper, clocks and pictures, cracks in wood floors, and under the edge of carpet. While bed bugs are most commonly found in bedrooms, infestations can also occur in other rooms, including: bathrooms; living rooms; and laundry rooms. Dark blood spots on sheets and bedding may indicate bed bug feeding. Bed bugs will sometimes excrete while they are feeding. This results in darker (reddish or brownish) spots or smears placed on bed sheets, pillowcases and mattresses, or in nearby areas. This material is composed mostly of digested blood and the stains care very characteristic.

The greatest risk for encountering bed bugs appears to be while people are traveling. Regardless of the type of accommodations you stay at, it is a good precaution to check your room. Please refer to the section “How can I detect an infestation?” and check around the headboard and adjacent area of the bed. Also inspect luggage stands or other areas where suitcases are typically set down. Be aware of any unexplained bites you may find in the morning; that could be the result of bed bugs. Also watch for fecal spots, which could occur on bed sheets or nearby areas. Inspect your luggage when you get home after a trip for any bed bugs that may have escaped your earlier attention.

Please read and follow the 9-Step preparation instructions on The reverse of this sheet to get ready for bed bug treatment.

Understand that the application of pesticides alone will not Satisfactorily eliminate bed bugs. You must adhere to the instructions carefully, step-by-step, to properly prepare for the treatment.

Failure to follow the procedures will result in an ineffective treatment. Follow-up treatments are always necessary, however, the number of follow-up treatments will increase if the area to be treated is not fully prepared for the extermination.

Bed bugs are very difficult to control and your full cooperation is necessary to rid your home of these unwanted parasites.

Instructions

You will need:
Strong trash bags with ties.
Access to a Washer & Dryer (High Heat)
Vacuum Cleaner with disposable bags (Strong Suction)
Vinyl mattress and pillow covers with zippers.

Complete these steps on the extermination day, all at once, all in one day.

1. COLLECT ALL FABRIC ITEMS AND PLACE IN PLASTIC BAGS. Collect and remove ALL washable fabric items (pillows, sheets, blankets, clothing, rugs, curtains, towels) from ALL rooms (closets, bedrooms, living room, bathrooms and kitchen). Place into trash bags and seal.

2. REMOVE all of these bags from your home.

3. WASH & DRY on HOT, then seal them in bags. Wash ALL items in HOT water in a washing machine. Place the clean items in NEW UNUSED PLASTIC BAGS AND TIE CLOSED. DO NOT BRING CLEAN BAGS OF CLEAN LAUNDRY INTO THE HOME UNTIL AFTER THE EXTERMINATION.

4. REMOVE ALL CLUTTER, BOXES, BAGS, ECT. VACUUM ALL SURFACES WITH A STRONG SUCTION VACUUM. (All furniture mattresses, floors, walls crevices, heating units, baseboards, picture frames, ect.)

5. DISPOSE OF THE VACUUM BAG. Immediately place vacuum bag in trash bag, seal and throw away in a waste container outside of the building. CONTINUE TO VACUUM DAILY AND DISPOSE OF BAG.

6. DESTROY & THROW AWAY INFESTED ITEMS and furniture you are willing to dispose of. Prevent reuse. When you throw furniture away, wrap in plastic, break it apart, slash it with scissors, and/or smear ketchup so no one picks it up off the street and brings it into another house.

7. HAVE PROFESSIONAL EXTERMINATOR TREATS THE HOME AND FURNITURE.

8. SEAL MATTRESS & PILLOWS. Completely seal mattress/pillows in zippered vinyl coverings. KEEP SEALED FOR ONE YEAR.

9. RETURN CLEAN ITEMS TO YOUR HOME.

A FOLLOW-UP INSPECTION WILL BE NECESSARY IN TWO WEEKS